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Attention, fashion fans! The autumn/winter 2023 shows are looming, and what a womenswear season it’s gearing up to be. Prepare for significant creative director debuts, schedule shake-ups and city shifts, as brands battle it out for the biggest viral moment of the season across New York, London, Milan and Paris.
The autumn/winter 2023 schedule sees the return (and the departure) of some blockbuster labels. Notably absent from New York are Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford, and from Milan, Marni (which showed in Tokyo on 1 February), plus Boss and Versace, both of whom are hosting shows in Los Angeles. After a number of seasons showing off schedule in London, meanwhile, Alexander McQueen has returned to Paris. The most anticipated new arrival is, of course, in London, where Burberry’s newly-installed artistic director Daniel Lee will present his vision for the house.
Here’s Vogue’s guide to what to expect from the big four this season.
New York
In terms of big name behemoths, it’s a slightly quieter season for the Big Apple, with Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford all absent from the schedule. But what the city lacks in leading lights, it makes up for in hotly-tipped emerging labels, including Luar, Elena Velez, Willy Chavarria, Interior and Head of State. Keep your eyes peeled for some future fashion stars.
London
JW Anderson! Molly Goddard! Christopher Kane! Erdem! Roksanda! London’s best-loved stars are back with a bang, after a much quieter spring/summer 2023 season than planned, when the nation was plunged into a period of mourning in the wake of the Queen’s death. The big news is Daniel Lee’s debut at British heritage label Burberry, plus the return of Julien MacDonald and Mowalola. New to the schedule? Moncler brings its immersive Genius concept to the Big Smoke, and LFW will also close with three Ukrainian designers: Beyoncé favourite Frolov, Ksenia Schnaider and Paskal.
Milan
Versace, Marni and Boss may be absent, but Milan still promises a line-up of mega brands, from Prada to Fendi, Bottega Veneta to Emporio Armani. At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis will present his sophomore show for the brand, and Marco de Vincenzo will unveil his second womenswear collection for Etro. Meanwhile Gucci will showcase its second design team-led offering, before its newly-minted creative director De Sarno Saturday reveals his take on the house codes come September.
Paris
It’s a schedule of shifts, as Louis Vuitton moves from closing out the season to an earlier date slot, and Dundas, Y/Project and Pierre Cardin return to the schedule. One newbie to watch out for is Palm Angels. Additionally, Ludovic de Saint Sernin will make his debut at the helm of Ann Demeulemeester, while Harris Reed makes his first creative outing for Nina Ricci. Prepare for an emotional Vivienne Westwood show: the first collection presented by her husband Andreas Kronthaler in the wake of her passing. And for obvious reasons, all eyes will be on Balenciaga.
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