Mark DeVincenzo has officially stepped in as Creative Director of Etroand his first menswear collection as head of the Italian fashion house is finally here. Although the designer closed the doors of his own namesake label back in 2020, Kean Etro now passes the keys to Vincenzo in hopes of a new vision for the 55-year-old label.
For Spring/Summer 2023Etro’s menswear division supplied a poetic offering that reflected the brand’s delicate identity. The collection oozed with gentle notes of refreshed masculinity and saw Kean Etro’s last hurrah take shape through a sentimental lens that acted as a tender love note to the brand.
Many heritage Houses are in a period of reset and refinement, and this could not ring truer for Etro. With De Vincenzo, the Italian label finds a new direction saturated in ‘70s codes, and it happens to be the perfect vision for a brand shake-up. Much to the attendee’s pleasure, the new Creative Director hit it out of the park.
Merino wool made up numerous opening looks, with jumpers and cardigans shaping a relaxed, casual identity for the House. Those garments incorporated muted palettes and geometric shapes, leather buttons and soft details — shoulders curved naturally, hems fell below the waist, and everything screamed “comfort.”
It’s a welcomed departure from the current trend of exaggerated thisbigger and better that. Etro’s new look became increasingly impactful when swirling blends of purple consumed sweaters, garnering widespread praise from the showgoers. Likewise, crochet knit tops and sweaters with three-dimensional knitted appliqués — some of oranges, others of leaves — continued to represent the ‘70s vibe.
Trousers floated and kicked out at the bottom, power suits with large lapels and bold checkered prints, embroidered fleeces, pea coats, and an embroidered leather biker jacket all stepped back in time, while contemporary touches like skirts (a big trend this season), riveted clogs, and bum bags came together for a bit of freshness.
The bags were a particular highlight. Most were tucked under arms, allowing the embroidered vintage designs and rich leather tones to peak through subtly. But a show-stealing number was a small hand-held piece, combining the House logo with intricate retro graphics.
Backstage, Hypebeast got a closer look at Vincenzo’s new designs. Up close the details delivered, and to find out more, we spoke to the designer to understand his plans for Etro menswear.
“Tailoring is always beautiful and important for the brand. Etro started [here]showing tartan which is one of the most important fabrics of Etro’s history,” explained De Vincenzo. “I study every day. Tailoring and masculinity is something that Etro that has in its code.”
Discussing his new Etro man, the Creative Director said: “He is a man who combines private and public. Most of the outfits are a combination of something very comfortable, but at the same time look eccentric. I cannot find a word to describe this combination, but this is the key to my future in the brand.”
And finally, on his choice to add cummerbunds to the trousers, he simply called it “romantic and, why not, feminine.”
Etro’s FW23 collection can be seen in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast to find more Milan Fashion Week FW23 content over the coming days.
For something on the other side of the fashion realm, check out Prada FW23’s futuristic cleanse.